“Hurry!” yelled my mum. I eagerly approached the car after a calming break on
the toilet. I couldn’t wait till we arrived at the surfing center. After a long but
short journey I hastily jumped out the car and sprinted towards the shops quick
as I could. when all of the other people arrived I took the closest board over to
the beach and started to wax the board so I wouldn’t fall off. I looked to the sea
and found myself watching the spectacular waves that I was going to surf.
The awesome sea was so clear that I felt like you could fall right through. As I wriggled into the water the instructor started to paddle to the set of waves that were starting to form. I couldn’t wait until I was finally on a wave enjoying the beautiful moment.
The first wave was a nice medium sized one to get me going but I just couldn’t get myself to standing up. It was a long time since I had been on a board and I felt it right away when I found my self on the board but Unfortunately the wave didn’t last forever and before I knew it I was lying in the water getting back on my board. After some warming up in the shallow part we moved out where all of the locals were hanging out to catch the perfect wave.
Then-- on the horizon I saw that there was a tremendous wave stretching to reach the sky but I decided to let it go since there was another wave covering anything that was hidden behind the ginormous wave. Because most of the locals had gone for the first it was easier for me to compete for the second wave and before I knew it my arms were paddling as fast as I could snapping my feet up to the position that I needed them to be in.
I could feel the wave crashing down angrily behind me in a white scramble but right before me the wave was as smooth as silk and as clear as glass.
The ride felt memorable.
It ended with a calming decrease of the wave. I jumped of the board but needed to got back on again since I had to get back out to the amazing but furious waves. This was not an easy task since all of the other waves were coming in as I was going the opposite way. BOOM there was a big wave coming my way that had just smacked me right in the face. BOOM, again another wave smacked me off my board and into the water. There was a quick gap for time until the next big wave came and smacked me off my board. I used the gap to my advantage and quickly paddled my way as far out as I could. Out at sea from the middle of nowhere a huge wave popped up but I had time before it crashed and probably would have swung me off my board and thrashed me into the sea.
The awesome sea was so clear that I felt like you could fall right through. As I wriggled into the water the instructor started to paddle to the set of waves that were starting to form. I couldn’t wait until I was finally on a wave enjoying the beautiful moment.
The first wave was a nice medium sized one to get me going but I just couldn’t get myself to standing up. It was a long time since I had been on a board and I felt it right away when I found my self on the board but Unfortunately the wave didn’t last forever and before I knew it I was lying in the water getting back on my board. After some warming up in the shallow part we moved out where all of the locals were hanging out to catch the perfect wave.
Then-- on the horizon I saw that there was a tremendous wave stretching to reach the sky but I decided to let it go since there was another wave covering anything that was hidden behind the ginormous wave. Because most of the locals had gone for the first it was easier for me to compete for the second wave and before I knew it my arms were paddling as fast as I could snapping my feet up to the position that I needed them to be in.
I could feel the wave crashing down angrily behind me in a white scramble but right before me the wave was as smooth as silk and as clear as glass.
The ride felt memorable.
It ended with a calming decrease of the wave. I jumped of the board but needed to got back on again since I had to get back out to the amazing but furious waves. This was not an easy task since all of the other waves were coming in as I was going the opposite way. BOOM there was a big wave coming my way that had just smacked me right in the face. BOOM, again another wave smacked me off my board and into the water. There was a quick gap for time until the next big wave came and smacked me off my board. I used the gap to my advantage and quickly paddled my way as far out as I could. Out at sea from the middle of nowhere a huge wave popped up but I had time before it crashed and probably would have swung me off my board and thrashed me into the sea.
I ferociously paddled my way over the towering wave-me and my board made it
safely over the wave. But this time as a team. I was a back with the group of
locals. Ending the same way that I started. After a few more beautiful waves I
headed back in to the beach.
After all that surfing my arms were hurting already and I had to squeeze out the last of my energy to get me back home. At 6:30pm and after 4 hours of surfing I was hungry and dying to get something into my mouth. Luckily the food was heaven in a place like Hawaii.
Johnny
After all that surfing my arms were hurting already and I had to squeeze out the last of my energy to get me back home. At 6:30pm and after 4 hours of surfing I was hungry and dying to get something into my mouth. Luckily the food was heaven in a place like Hawaii.
Johnny
You did an amazing job in describing the waves, however we did not know where you were until the end, personally I think this might have been done to create a bigger effect, however some other people may not like it.
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